CHILLED TOMATO SOUP WITH CUCUMBER AND CELERY
This gorgeous summertime soup takes advantage of the fabulous heirloom tomatoes our Willamette Valley farmers grow. You can find a similar recipe in Alice Waters' book, Chez Panisse Vegetables-one of our most trusted references.
Serves 4 to 6
4 pounds ripe tomatoes
2 tablespoons salt
1 small cucumber
2 stalks celery
3 shallots
White wine or pinot noir vinegar
 
Cut the tomatoes in quarters, put them in a bowl, add all the salt, and mix well. Peel and seed the cucumber, clean the celery, and peel the shallots. Cut all of them into fine dice. Put the shallots in a small bowl, add just enough of the vinegar to cover, and set aside.
 
After about half an hour the salt will have softened the tomatoes. Mash them with a wooden spatula and work them through a food mill to obtain a thick tomato juice. Add the shallots, celery, and the cucumber. Season to taste with salt and vinegar. (Use balsamic vinegar if the tomatoes need a little sweetness.) Refrigerate over ice and serve well chilled.
 
Note: You can use different colored tomatoes, for example, Early Girls, yellow Taxis, and Green Zebras-and prepare them in separate batches. Pour them carefully into the same bowl for a tricolor soup that will also allow you to appreciate the distinctive flavor of each variety.
A richer, spicier version can be made by adding olive oil and mashed garlic to the tomato base, and by garnishing the soup with diced hot and bell peppers.